Samiha Al-Khalil (1923-1999) was born in Anabta in Tulkarem. Her father, Yousif Al-Qabaj, was the chairman of the municipality of Anabta for thirty-six years. Her mother is Halima Tukan. Samiha was a charity worker and a prominent figure in Palestinian politics.
She was enrolled in a private school in the city of Nablus when she was seven years old. She studied until the second grade of elementary school. In the early thirties, she joined a school in TulKarem and studied until seventh grade, and then she joined “The Friends” School in Ramallah and studied until second grade in high school. She continued her studies of the Arabic language until her third year in Beirut Arab University but could not finish her studies because she was banned from travelling by the Israeli occupation.
She earned her high school degree twenty-five years after she got married. In 1940, she married Salama Khalil.
In 1948 Samiha and her family became refugees. They lived in Gaza where she used to sell jewelry to survive until leaving by boat to Lebanon. IN 1952, all the family left Gaza by boat to Beirut and returned to the West Bank.
The experience of war and of being a refugee shaped her life as she struggled to gain back her country by shaking off the effects of Israeli occupation and oppression.
Samiha was an active women and she was considered one of the pioneers in social and women’s action in the West Bank.
In 1965, Khalil came to the public eye when she founded the al-Inaash al-Usra society in her garage – it would grow to become one of the largest and most effectivePalestinian welfare organization.
The organization empowers women through vocational skills trainings. The center also offers residential child care and, through its sale of embroidery and crafts, helps preserve Palestinian heritage and culture during the years of occupation. From modest beginnings, Ina’ash El-Usra has grown to have a $6 million annual budget, giving Palestinians the opportunity to maintain their dignity and hope as they struggle to maintain their presence in their historic home.
In 1970, she became a member in the leadership of the “National Front in the West Bank”.
In 1978, she was chosen to be a member in the “The National Committee of Guidance,” the supreme leading bureau of the Palestinian people inside Palestine. She was the only woman in that committee.
She established, and later became president of, the “Society of Reviving the Family” for thirty consecutive years. This society was one of the most prominent national societies to stand up against the occupation of the West Bank after 5 June 1967.
During the 1980s, Khalil was tied to the Democratic Front for the Liberation of Palestine and detained six times by the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) ; she saw two of her children deported from Israel and the other three (who had been out of the country at the time) forbidden from re-entering. She was eventually placed under town-arrest in al-Bireh.
In 1996 she ran for president of the Palestinian Authority, losing to Yasser Arafat, while garnering 11.5% of the vote.
A grandmother of 13, Khalil remained an active member in the political scene, serving on the Palestinian National Council up until her death in 1999.
She was a member of the Young Christian Women, of the administrative bureau of the Union of Charities in Jerusalem, the chairman of the Union of Volunteer Women Societies, which includes fifty-five societies in the West Bank and Gaza Strip, member of the administrative committee of the branches of the Charities Union in Jerusalem, Al-Khalil, and Nablus, the treasurer of the Illiteracy and Senior Teaching Committee, of Al-Maqasid Charity, an honorary member of the Arab Lawyers Union
She wrote a poetry book entitled Uprising to Statehood.
Medals and Prizes:
Sources:
Further reading:
– When life hands you lemons
http://www.cipe.org/blog/2010/03/11/making-lemonade-from-lemons/#.VH2JFZUtDtQ
–Women Beyond Borders
Widad Kawar is an internationally renowned collector of Palestinian and Jordanian ethnic and cultural arts. She was born in Tulkarem but grew up in Bethelem. Widad received her education in the Ramallah Quaker School. She studied at the American University of Beirut.
Ramallah and Bethlehem, both considered significant cultural heritage centers in Palestine, had a tremendous impact on Widad as a young girl.
During some vacations at her mother´s town Widad began to appreciate the nature of Palestinian village life in the 1940s. She started to learn about costumes and embroidery and she felt in love with that art. In the time she spent in Aboud, every day after lunch many women got together and embroider.
With the time she got married and settled in Jordan where she volunteered in Hussein and Wihdat refugee camps. Widad was a member of the YMCA as well as the Women’s Auxiliary of the United Nations Relief and Works Agency, a special body created after the Palestinian exodus in 1948.
The war of 1967 was an extraordinary human drama and Widad and all the Palestinians saw Palestine occupied. She began to collect geneuine pieces before they were lost or influenced by the new life in the refugee camps.
She collected marriage dresses, cushion covers, home decorations, weaving, pottery, handicrafts, belts, head covers jewelry and straw work.
After the war she began to meet women in different villages and cities in Palestine and she understood the way their roles had changed with the occupation and their position in the family, their attachment to their heritage and their endurance to keep a family together under that situation.
The women whose heritage Widad has collected remain her inspiration. They have honored her by sharing their sad and happy memories of the past with her. They inspired her to pass on their rich cultural heritage to future generations.
Actually, Kawar is known as Umm l’ibas al-falastini—the mother of Palestinian dress.
She has amassed an extensive collection of dresses, costumes, textiles, and jewelry over the past 50 years, seeking to preserve part of the heritage of Palestine. Kawar´s collection is the largest to date of Palestinian traditional dress and accessories comprising more than 3,000 items.
She has made her collection available for public viewing and has mounted exhibits of Palestinian dress around the world.
For her each item fo her collection calls to mind an individual: a wife, a mother, a daughter, a family. Each item reminds her of a place: a village, a town, a house, a market. Each item was worn on special occasions by a special person.
She has written many books on Palestinian embroidery. Recently, she collaborated with Margaret Skinner on A Treasury of Stitches: Palestinian Embroidery Motifs, 1850–1950(Rimal/Melisende). Widad is currently a member of the Board of Trustees of the American Center for Oriental Research.
Her latest and most important book is Threads Of Identity a history of Palestinian women told through aspects of popular heritage, focusing on traditional dresses but also including textiles and rug weaving, rural and urban customs, jewellery, cuisine, and festivities. The interviews with women who lived through the traumas and changes of the 20th century are a contribution to oral history, augmenting standard historical accounts. While most writing about the Middle East concentrates on politics, her book focuses on the dignity of ordinary people, and women in particular, bridging the gap between the major events of history and everyday life. With this book Widad Kamel Kawar pays homage to Palestinian women.
After years of collection, she recently established Tiraz, a home for the largest collection of Arab dress, containing over 3,000 costumes and weavings from the 19th and 20th centuries. Her dream now is to develop the center and keep the traditions of embroidery alive.
Each piece belongs to a particular time, a particular tribe or village, with an individual story to tell.
Tiraz is a place to exhibit and combine these stories for the public in Jordan and the Middle East, as well as for cultural centres and institutions around the world. To be celebrated and understood, and collection must be seen and experienced.
Words alone cannot capture the spirit and immediacy of the embroidered patterns; the sensitivity, diversity and the richness of their forms.
Tiraz will curate, describe and explore these forms, expressed in the seams of each garment, in a way which historians and visitors from all over the world will come to appreciate, and remember.
Awards
List of Publications
The list below includes authored publications as well as contribution towards publications, especially exhibit catalogues.
Exhibitions
Some of the items of her big collection
Hebron
Jaffa
Gaza
Head Cover Jerusalem Head Cover Galilee
Bracelets Necklaces
Cross Stitch
Pottery
Weavings
Sources:
Further readings:
-Presentation of 2012 Prince Claus Award to Widad Kawar
http://www.princeclausfund.org/es/news/presentation-of-2012-prince-claus-award-to-widad-kawar.html
– Widad Kawar – Every Dress Tells A Story
http://beamman.com/historic-and-cultural/1085-widad-kawar-tiraz
Yasser Barakat is a Palestinian collector and designer who owns The Yasser Barakat Gallery in the Old City of Jerusalem.
Barakat is a native Jerusalemites, graduated from Roosevelt University in Chicago. He started collecting Palestinian dresses and artwork when he was 19 years old. His passion for Palestinian embroidery is one of the reasons why he collected and preserved this heritage from all regions of Palestine.
The gallery was established in 1972 and offers a wide range of old Palestinian artwork, David Roberts lithographs (original 1840s and 1850s pieces), steel engraving and maps from the 16th and 17th centuries. Additionally, there is a magnificent collection of Persian, Turkish, Afghani and Palestinian carpets.
In his search for Palestinian artwork, Barakat grew to understand that embroidery is being lost and neglected. He wanted to do something about it, and created a studio to collect Palestinian dresses and jewellery.
To this day, Yasser continues to search for and buy unique Palestinian artwork wherever he can find it in order to safeguard the history of Palestinian embroidery and artwork.
Barakat believes that each piece of Palestinian embroidery contains a story and heritage. Each dress holds a story behind it, and Yasser can spend hours explaining the meaning behind every piece of embroidery, describing the village in Palestine it came from and the meaning behind each piece. Within its stitches and colours lays stories of Palestine that need to be propagated.
He explains that these pieces were typically done on either black or white linen dresses, which had triangular sleeves and whose length reached the floor.
The embroidered area included a square chest piece, front and back lower panels and side panels running down from the waist. Each colour is chosen with care and with an attention to the meaning it conveys. For example, when embroidery uses green, it is meant to symbolise growth; yellow stands for harvest; brown for earth; blue against the evil eye; and black for widows.
Every woman had the chance to express her creativity with her choice of colours, patterns and fabrics, but generally each area in Palestine had its own distinct embroidery rules.
The dresses were accessorised with headpieces (veils) and each area and village wore different hats. Each hat contained different stitches and silver coins, depending on how wealthy the woman was. Some hats even contained gold coins to denote their wealth.
Women’s accessories also included bracelets, necklaces, nose rings and anklets. Jewellery often had names engraved on it and contained different artwork, depending on the area it came from.
Yasser not only collects Palestinian artwork but he also design and offer art pieces in a newer and preserved manner. All pieces are done with Manjal stitch around the borders, which holds the embroidery and highlights its beauty. The embroidery styles come from dresses and jewellery from all regions of Palestine.
He is doing a great job because old dresses that are ruined and neglected are fixed up, worked on and preserved on newer fabrics and in unique framings.
The gallery offers Palestinian dresses embroidered between the 1890s and the 1930s. All dresses are pure silk embroidered and naturally dyed. The dresses originate from all regions of Palestine, including a variety of Palestinian cities and villages. Dresses were produced for many different occasions such as weddings, everyday dress, and festive/special events.
Palestinian wedding headdresses also tell unique stories and depict different regions of Palestine. Historically, the headdress was a part of the woman’s dowry and the amount of silver or gold on the headdress added to the total amount of the dowry. Each headdress resembles the area it came from such as Hebron, Bethlehem and Ramallah. The headdresses were made in these big cities and then worn in the surrounding towns and villages.
We can find as well table runners, cushions, wedding pillows, wall hangings, bags and clutches, wallets and glasses cases.
Some items of his collection
Front Piece
Dress
Wedding Pillow
Headdress
Source:
www.yasserbarakatgallery.com
Further readings:
– The Yasser Barakat Collection of Palestinian Embroidery Preserving Palestines Heritage and Art
http://archive.thisweekinpalestine.com/details.php?id=1029&ed=93
– This Week in Palestine, 27 Feb 2014, “The Yasser Barakat Collection of Palestinian Embroidery Preserving Palestine’s
http://www.fashionembroidery.co.uk/features.php#row1
May Khoury is a Palestinian collector of antiques and designer. She was born in 1940 in Ramallah, Palestine. She studied at the Friends Girls School and went to Bir Zeit University. She has been living in Amman, Jordan since 1974until now. She is considered a cultural conservationist- for over 16 years, her creations have earned a deserve status as a Traditional Handicraft Designer. She believes she has a mission to help preserve the traditional facets of Arabian crafting skills, from fading away.
May became a worldwide promoter of Arabian heritage, transforming its aged beauty with new furniture and clothing designs to adorn the modern-day home.
Her fresh approach to redesigning folkloric pieces has gained popularity with younger and older generations alike. The recycling process of breathing new life into older pieces has become her trademark in producing desirable, artistic, and functional creations.
Her creations were introduced to Arab and European countries, as part of the Mediterranean handicraft promotion. With her work she expresses her own vision on heritage preservation, through the holding of several fashion shows abroad and in Jordan where she lives.
She is a member of the International Women Forum, Jordan Branch, of the Jordanian Forum for Business & Professional Women, networking to enhance, develop and empower business women in Jordan, of the world Crafts Council, and member of Alhoush Network which is the premier cultural networking and e-commerce portal to contemporary art and design from the Arab world.
She is the Founder & Designer: Badr Adduja Arts & Crafts. Badr Adduja Brand is the signature of novel crafts, handmade with traditional authenticity and the personal creativity of its founding designer, May Khoury. Inaugurated in 1999 by HRH Princess Muna Al Hussein, Badr Addujafast grew to become a symbol of designing and producing the ultimate in beauty as the name suggests; in Arabic, Badr Adduja means the full moon at night.
Badr Adduja has played an essential role in giving back to the community, where it has employed and cultivated the talents of over 30 artisans, granting them a stable income while sustaining their traditional craftsmanship skills. Together with May Khoury, the growing family of Badr Adduja continues to preserve Arabian folklore and bring its heritage to life.
From eccentric furniture pieces and accessories, to rich textiles and even one-off clothing items, some of Badr Adduja’s creations have made it to the homes of prominent people and private VIP lounges, as well as renowned museums and hotels around the world.
Awards
-Winner of both Gold & Silver A Design Awards 2013-2014 in the category of Arts & Crafts.
-Winner of the Silver A Design Award 2012-2013 in the category Arts & Crafts -Nominated for Prime Designer of the year 2013 by a member of the International Designers Association.
-Won the 2nd Laureate of the UNESCO crafts prize for the Arab states, held in Algeria in 2002, for the design of a unique wooden chair, carved and decorated with Traditional Palestinian intricate embroidery and motifs.
Private Exhibition
-9th – 31st July 2000 at Badr Ad-duja arts& crafts Under the patronage of Her Majesty Queen Rania AL-Abdullah (Wooden Rhymes)
-Exhibition 14th March 2002at Badr Ad-duja arts & crafts Under the patronage of H.R.H. Princess Muna AL- Hussein (Authentic Textile In Style)
-Exhibition December9th 2007at Badr Adduja gallery An exhibition of Jordanian home furnishings & Accessories (Creations defining a nation )
-November 24th 2008 At Badr Adduja, under the Patronage of her Excellency Minister of Culture Nancy Bakir (Creative Melodies of Oriental Legacies) Exhibition
Mixed Exhibitions
– Dubai: March 12-17, 2014 Beirut Art Fair 19-22nd Sept. 2013 Amman Art Week 5-16 September 2013 30th April
– 2nd May 2001 Abu Dhabi – UAE in The Jordan Festival Under the patronage of H.H. Sheikh Nahyan Bin Zayed Al Nahyan & H.R.H. Prince Feisal Bin Al – Hussien 5th
– 14th Nov. 2002 Paris – France First Salon of Euro med Craftswomen organized by “Women from Two Shores” at salon des pont neuf Paris, France. 25th Feb.
– 11th Mar. 2004 – France Exposition itinérante “ Empreintes et couleurs de Méditerranée” Organized by Project PRODECOM Chambre des Beaux Arts de Méditerrané At Unesco headquarters Paris, France .4th
– 11th Dec 2004 Amman Exhibition for designers of handicrafts from the Mediterranean at city hall, Amman municipality. 22nd Apr
– 1st May 2005 Florence/Italy An exhibition in the International Florence Fair in coordination with unesco.
– 28th June – 24th Sep. 2005 Paris Exhibition for Heritage Artisana & Design at gallery Viaduc des arts. Paris, France
Videos
This is Palestine – May Khoury
Sources:
http://competition.adesignaward.com
Further reading:
– Interview with May Khoury
http://competition.adesignaward.com/designer-interview.php?profile=122615
Hanan Munayyer is a Palestinian –American collector and researcher of Palestinian clothing.
She felt in love with the Palestinian embroidery in 1987, when she saw a collection of dresses and accessories brought to New York by the late Rolla Foley, an American Quaker who was in Palestine in 1938. Foley was working as a teacher at the Friends School in Ramallah. Foley´s collection included a large number of quality items of Palestinian and Syrian costumes, some of them date back to 1850.
Hanan and her husband bought the Foley´s collection because they thought that embroidery is one of the strongest expressions of Palestinian culture and they were interested in promoting the Palestinian cultural image in a positive way.
Munayyer, a molecular biologist, put her research skills to use to dig into the history of their new possessions — through books (only a handful were available then), textile experts and trips back to the Middle East.
Her collection has items of proto-Palestinian attire in artifacts from the Canaanite period (1500 BCE) such as Egyptian paintings depicting Canaanites in A-shaped garments. Munayyer says that from 1200 BC to 1940 AD, all Palestinian dresses were cut from natural fabrics in a similar A-line shape with triangular sleeves. This shape is known to archaeologists as the “Syrian tunic” and appears in artifacts such as an ivory engraving from Megiddo dating to 1200 BC.
She has the largest collection in America, the Munayyer collection includes costumes from most Palestinian regions well known for distinctive costumes. The collection has been displayed in several American museums.
Hanan is the co-founder and president of the Palestinian Heritage Foundation. She has researched and lectured on Palestinian textile arts for over twenty years.
Her book Traditional Palestinian Costume Origins and Evolution was published by Interlink Books in May 2011, is the culmination of Hanan´s research for the past twenty three years. It reflects the historical and cultural richness of Palestine and the Arab world through costumes and embroidery.
Hanan’s study commenced with scholarly exploration into art history, archaeology, the interpretation of ancient patterns, and the history of costumes and craft in the Middle East over the last 4,000 years. It includes extensive field research and the culling of museum resources and publications from around the world.
The book presents the most exhaustive and up-to-date study of the origins of Palestinian embroidery and costume—from antiquity through medieval Arab textile arts to the present. It documents the evolution of costume and the textile arts in Palestine in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries region by region.
Hanan knows that these textiles have long played an important role in Palestinian culture and identity and are manifested in every aspect of Palestinian life. She believes that the costumes are sources of historical data.
Hanan received the ATFP Award for Excellence in Arts Scholarship at ATFP’s Sixth Annual Gala on October 19, 2011 in recognition of her book on traditional costumes.
Some items from her collection
Sources:
– http://www.palestineheritage.org
– http://www.all4palestine.com
Videos
-Hanan Karaman Munayyer awarded for Excellence in Arts Scholarship, ATFP 6th Annual Gala
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjy-Px-9k2w
–Traditional Palestinian Costume: Lecture and Book Signing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFPSY9rwGIs
Further readings:
– “Traditional Palestinian Costume: Lecture and Book Signing”
http://www.thejerusalemfund.org/ht/display/ContentDetails/i/32204/pid/v
– Traditional Palestinian Costume: Origins and Evolution
http://www.wrmea.org/2012-october/books-traditional-palestinian-costume-origins-and-evolution.html